MQT Jeans - Highlights of this season
Founded in 2008, built based on the principles of quality and authentic european manufacturing - ‘MQT’ which stands for ‘Mastering Quality Tradition’ is a family run company, driven by family spirit.
Created by three generations of manufacturing expertise, extensive knowledge is what inspires the brand identity. MQT is a specialist denim brand that constantly searches the continent for cutting edge design and finishing treatments - garments are vigorously checked and produced to the highest standard of quality.
The brand has built up a legion of fans for their raw, industrial chinos and denim collections, and is working to become globally renowned.
MQT jeans range from £29.90 for the Outlet range, to £120 for the Premium, and stockists include Selfridges, Flannels and Asos to name a few.
KENZO release 2015 spring/summer campaign
By Alyss Bowen
Parisian fashion house KENZO joins forces with the artists from Toilet Paper Magazine on their fourth collaboration for their spring/summer 2015 ultramodern advertising campaign.
Released in three chapters, Toilet Paper created a cityscape scene with a nod to the future through over-saturated vibrant colours and geometric designs.
Captured by the Toilet Paper collective, photographer Pierpaolo Ferrari, artist Maurizio Cattelan and art director Micol Talso. The campaign lends inspiration from the bright and futuristic, showing an optimistic paradise where the models run riot.
The first chapter shows the two ‘hero’, models Mona Matsuoka and Qing He, in their modern, concrete jungle. The simplest of the three chapters we are able to see the real essence of KENZO, with the new collection showcased effortlessly.
The second chapter portrays a magical, mysterious playground. The two heroes stomp through the high-tech city, with their giant like limbs, grabbing buildings and asteroids and imitating puppet shows with KENZO accessories.
The third and final chapter is based upon a child’s fantasy. Toilet Papercreated a 3D origami world in which the KENZO kids play with dinosaurs, skate on planets and explore the waters of a secret island.
The spring/summer campaign is instantly recognizable as a KENZOadvertisement. The consistently modern brand reflects both the bright and the future through their collaboration with Toilet Paper.
It sits perfectly in between being a piece of fashion advertisement, and artist reflection and showcases their men’s, women’s and children’s spring/summer collection in an animated dream.
XIMON LEE : Winner of the H&M Design Award
Recent Parsons graduate Ximon Lee, real name Simon Dongxing Lee, winner of this year’s H&M Design Award is a promising new design talent - and a name to familiarise yourself with in 2015.
The 24-year-old New York based designer that grew up in Hong Kong, China, made history at the end of last month at Stockholm’s annual fashion week as he became the first U.S, and first menswear designer to win the prestigious Design Award, chosen from 400 applicants by an international jury in London.
In a statement the young designer said: "The H&M Award means so much to me at the beginning of my career - I cannot imagine how I'd start my own label without it.” H&M have previously collaborated with international fashion houses including Alexander Wang, Maison Martin Margiela and Isabel Marant.
Pushing the boundaries of menswear with his big cuts, architectural shapes and denim textiles, Lee had previously been noted as one of the New York designers to watch after winning Parsons Menswear Designer of the Year award in 2014. His graduation collection explored the contrast between synthetic and organic textures, inspired by the documentary titled “Children of Leningradsky”.
“Oversized, ill-fitted and layered clothes on these orphans are keys to survive in cold Russian winter. However, the unexpected mixture of materials and the contrast between synthetic and organic textures from these found clothes are pieces of art and love.” Lee said on the collection.
The designer is now concentrating on launching his own menswear label. He takes home the €50,000 prize fund, and gains a period of mentorship which will offer an opportunity to develop select pieces from his line for sale globally at H&M beginning October of this year.
“The Grammar of the Image”: An Interview With ArtEZ Graduate KARIN VLUG
With three locations across the Netherlands and an enrolment of over 3,000 students, ArtEZ Art Institute offers...
With three locations across the Netherlands and an enrolment of over 3,000 students, ArtEZ Art Institute offers both Bachelor’s and Master’s degrees in myriad creative platforms. Spanning visual art, architecture, fashion, design, music, theatre, creative writing, dance, and art education, ArtEZ’s curriculum caters to all creative minds and seeks to foster up-and-coming individuals. To find out more about this exciting institution, we chatted with fashion designer Karin Vlug, a recent graduate of ArtEZ and winner of last year’s Frans Molenaar Couture Award.
How did you initially become involved with fashion design?
Becoming involved in Fashion Design was very natural to me. Dressing myself every morning, trying on my mother’s wardrobe and discussing it, knitting with my granny, altering old clothes and sewing my first designs when I was 12 years old. It was all part of the process towards becoming a fashion designer.
Do any other artistic experiences or practices comprise your background?
I grew up in a very cultural family. We went to museums, the theatre and dance performances.
But I think the biggest influence was that I learned to look around me at a very young age. Counting stairs, comparing colours, looking at architecture, describing what I saw, counting/repetition… Then, when I went to ArtEZ it was the first and most important subject: “The grammar of the image”.
What does your design process typically entail?
It always starts with a simple observation of my daily surroundings, which/something I find very interesting. For example, the idea of my last collection was inspired by the IKEA concept.
After shopping at Ikea, you return home with a couple of flat boxes. At home you put these 2d parts together with a few simple actions. Everything fits perfectly, and after that one can change, vary and expand to one’s heart’s content.
My design process is very much based on the construction of the garment. Form will follow. Next to construction, I have a very big love for textiles. I create my own textiles with the use of materials that are mostly seen as invaluable.
In 2014, you won the Frans Molenaar Couture Award for “One square fits all” (congratulations!). What inspired this project?
My collection “One square fits all” consists of 90° angles only, such as the square and the T-form.
Sewing is not necessary, my pattern pieces contain tunnels and incisions, hence construction of the garment is possible by stringing together with a ribbon. For pants, only two pieces are required. For a shirt, dress, skirt, sweater or coat you will need one or more pieces. A complete wardrobe consists of ten pattern pieces.
The placement of incisions and tunnels, and the materials I developed, are the essence of the design.
I create couture without cutting or sewing; it is my vision of a new, accessible, made to measure, couture. Apart from a little silk and mohair, I use materials which are usually perceived as non-luxurious, e.g. different types of synthetic fabrics and anti-slip mats. These materials provide endless possibilities because of their melt-able nature. With the application of heat the materials are fused into a new one (and this is also the method by which tunnels and incisions are created).
In the near future my designs will be downloadable ‘made-to-measure’, and my pattern pieces, with the programmed incisions and tunnels, will be easily fused by means of laser or other heat source by or for the wearer.
Has winning such an award brought about any exciting opportunities?
Yes, very exciting ones! It has brought me exposure in magazines and expositions. But the most exciting opportunity is that since the Award I have been working for Professor Jose Theunissen. With a group of people from different universities and companies we are thinking about the future of fashion production within the next 5 years.
In 2014, you received a Bachelor of Arts Degree in Fashion Design from the ArtEZ Academy of Art and, currently, you are a blogger for ArtEZ & Innovatie. What brought you to ArtEZ?
ArtEZ has always been the only school for me. The program focuses on a high quality of design and concept for four full years. I wanted to become a really good designer. Learning about business is of course also a very important aspect, but I figured I could do it later; first fully focus on developing my creativity.
What did your academic career at ArtEZ entail?
The first year at the academy is very experimental. They really try to open you up and be very experimental – a skirt does not have to start in the waist, and ‘what is a skirt actually?’ They hardly give you any practical skills. This way you really develop your creativity since you have to figure out everything yourself. The concept is very important.
The second year is more practical. You start to look at different brands and get more technical skills. Still concept and experiment are very important, but you slowly start thinking about translation towards clothing.
In the third year you develop Collection Arnhem – a collection created by all the third year students – from concept to show and production. So valuable! Everyone starts at the same point in the process, thinking about the concept. Later on each student will work on the part he or she prefers, for example print, fabric, or production.
How has your experience with the school affected your practice?
My experience at the academy has affected everything in daily practice. The most valuable thing that I learned was how to look around me, describe it and translate into a fashion design concept.
And, lastly, what can we expect from you in the future? Any exciting plans?
In the near future you can expect a new collection from me. It will be a more and more developed version of “One square fits all”. I will present it at the Frans Molenaar Couture Award 2015. I also have a very exciting event coming up that I am organising myself :) in June 2015 in Amsterdam!
Eventually I would love to have my own research company where I will work with different types of disciplines, chemists, product designers, fashion designers, architects, etc. and where we all think about innovation within the construction of clothing. We will develop collections under Karin Vlug, but I can also imagine designing special pieces for a big fashion house. To be continued. :)
Colour block: What’s trending for SS15?
1970s revival: Retro tones - warm oranges, reds, yellows and greens.
1970s revival: Retro tones - warm oranges, reds, yellows and greens.
From flared trousers, crochet dresses and beaded detailing, to clashing florals, sheer kaftans, paisley, ethereal, and Balinese flower-inspired print blouses - seventies fashion throwbacks truly dominated the SS15 catwalk. Leading the seventies playback, Tommy Hilfiger bought a nostalgia of Woodstock and Coachella as models walked the runway to The Rolling Stones' “Sympathy for the Devil” and Jimi Hendrix's "All Along The Watchtower” down a path lined with psychedelic flowers. Prada brought back the platform clog, whilst Henry Holland paid tribute to the groupie girl with bold contrasting prints and metallics.
Also See: Emilio Pucci Printed Silk Crepe de Chine Wide-leg Pants.
Florals
“Florals? For Spring? Ground-breaking.” A predictable trend for spring but back for SS15 with 3D floral embellishments leading the way. The catwalk saw an explosion of exaggerated funkadelic florals from vivid cartoonish to retro styles, with ultra-bright floral bouquet prints sported by Chanel, Marni and Michael Kors paid as a homage to summer. Abstract graphic flower print bags are noted as the key trend piece of the season, as seen at the Valentino, Fendi, and Topshop Unique shows.
Victorian Whites: Nudes and neutrals
White is the colour of SS15. Fine white embroidered lace designs rich with artisan workmanship from Erderm, Valentino, Robert Cavalli, Louis Vuitton, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Joseph, boast the most delicate cutwork designs and bring us back to the style of Victoriana dressing.
Cleansing creams and white fuss free silhouettes were also showcased at Victoria Beckham, Jill Stuart, Ralph Lauren, Chloe, Alexander Wang and Chanel. Expect to see head-to-toe white outfits this spring.
Rich Blue Denims
As fashion editor of Vogue Francesca Burns notes: “more is more when it comes to spring/summer denim. Don’t be afraid of layering!” We see tailoring, military jackets, decorative detail and patchwork denim trending from all the fashion power houses, including Burberry, Gucci, Etro, Stella McCartney, Tommy Hilfiger, Dolce & Gabbana, Sonia Rykiel, Roberto Cavalli, and Chloe. It’s all about double, or even triple denim layering this spring.
Pastel Palette
An essence of elegance and femininity is brought to SS15 through the pastel summer hues of lilacs and lavender as showcased by Balenciaga, Missoni, Burberry, D Squared, Cavalli and Alberta Ferretti, which fully embody classic spring tones.
Green & Blue - Menswear
From aqua, vintage greens, and storm blues - the British pastoral and coastal shades of blue and green are the hues of menswear SS15. Combined in various collections including Krisvanassche, Y-3, Michael Kors, Baartmans & Siegel, Pringle of Scotland, Gieves & Hawkes and Hackett, the colours are the most prevalent of the season.
Behind the brand – Bimba Y Lola
Spanish sister’s Maria and Uxia Dominguez have a thing for dogs. So much so that they decided to honor their two greyhounds, Bimba and Lola, and name their fashion label after them
Bimba Y Lola was founded in 2005 in the North of Spain. The modern label launched 90 stores in its first five years of opening and has been rapidly growing ever since. Their greyhound logo expresses the brands dynamic nature and elegance.
The two sisters began their fashion journey working with their father at Sociedad Textil Lonia, which he co-founded. Venturing out, they created their own fashion brand and by 2006 had opened their first shop in Bilbao, Spain.
With their father co-founding a company that distributes clothing and accessories it is obvious where they get their inspiration. With 87 stores in Spain, Bimba Y Lola is a household name; they’ve even branched out to England.
The brand sells apparel and accessories, which evoke the spirit and playfulness of Spain. They take inspiration from nature, film, art and even family, proving that they are a close-knit bunch.
Their affordable, feminine pieces are classic with a hint of subtle modernity, and are aimed at women between the ages of 25-45. Picture classic silhouettes, combined with ribbed fabric, leather or a bold print.
With a young design team, everyone is under the age of 30, it’s easy to see that they are designing for women who want to step out of the typical Spanish Zara zone.
The latest Spring/Summer 2015 collection, ‘This is Tropicana’ uses flashes of neon colours to brighten up statement twin sets. This combined with staple sheer black pieces proves the pieces are not only wearable, but also fashionable.
Eye Respect: The Best of British Eyewear
London based, British eyewear manufacturer Eye Respect, that prides itself on skilled artisan, handcrafting the finest glasses individually for up to 16 hours, has seriously established its global presence over the past year.
From collaborating with the prestigious London designer Oliver Spencer and exhibiting in the “Designer Showroom” at LC:M, to participating in the ‘Capsule’ fashion trade show in Paris, to the Eye Respect x Il Bussetto SS15 collaboration - which was noted as the meeting of the best in Italy and Britain - Eye Respect has gained a year of acclaim from the International fashion press.
The brand believes and leads in its “Respect for Craft” campaigns around the globe. Its latest SS15 campaign “We Are Eye Respect” delves into the issues of real hand crafted eyewear and shares the experience with its customer base. Their “Respect for Craft” ethos considers frame proportions, angles and curvature sometimes trial and error, but always precise and never finished until the result is flawless.
Handcrafted in Italy of the finest acetate, the SS15 collection is built upon the 1950s round-rimmed aesthetic. From the Alex, the timeless classic wayfarer silhouette, to the EJ, the bold and contemporary, the Shaun, rounder in lens and bridge than the EJ, yet identical in density and feel, to the DC, the ultimate heritage silhouette - the SS15 collection features both optical frames and stylish two toned sunglasses, boasting traditional to contemporary designs with a strong heritage influence.
All frames come complete with an Eye Respect fold-away carry-case.
“The best of British eyewear that is understated yet like in all things a creative world leader.”
What's NICCE about LONDON?
Since 2013, the emerging clothing brand NICCE London has been growing and quickly established a name for itself as a trendy London lifestyle brand
Since 2013, the emerging clothing brand NICCE London has been growing and quickly established a name for itself as a trendy London lifestyle brand.
In the following years, NICCE London has focused on it’s modern, clean and simple design aesthetics. They have developed a unique approach to contemporary street wear apparel, especially suited to the buzzing life in London. More importantly, the creative inspiration derives from London’s ever-changing culture, music scene, tradition and art. NICCE London creates functional clothing that’s always breaking the boundaries and maintaining the brand’s ethos.
The clothing are designed for everyone, and NICCE London work with seasonal collections with a strong directional approach towards producing contemporary clean-cut street wear. Name’s such as Loco Dice, Ben Pearce, Yousef and Hot Since 82 are big fans and representatives for the brand.
The new SS15 collection is ready to launch any day now, and the main inspiration behind it is the love of fashion and electronic music by the head designer Mitchel Galvin-Farnol. Looks from the European club scene are incorporated together in this new SS15 collection. Nicce London has already caught the eye of some of the UK’s and USA’s most inspiring young music talent, such as Joey Badass & Wretch32, Jessie Ware, Ella Eyre, and Chvrches.
The Scandinavian Runway: Copenhagen Fashion Week 2015
Scandinavian fashion is known for its unique approach of design, which represents modern, eccentric and elegant aesthetics and conceptions of dress.
The region’s largest event - Copenhagen Fashion Week happens twice a year, every February and August. The AW15 collections showcased a contemporary approach to fashion with innovative materials, bold colours and high-end quality.
The runway came alive with the most diverse fashion talents, not just Danish but also international labels. From already established designers such as Wolford and Sand, new, street and classy brands such as Ganni, Freya Dalsjø and Bruuns Bazaar were also to be seen.
This year the AW15 collection featured simplicity that’s about quality rather than quantity. The most noticeable element on the runway for a lot of designers, or the lack of it, was the colour. Both for men and women, the AW15 collections featured their designs with a minimalistic and bold chunky colour approach - of white, gray, black, and navy. Instead, the focus was more on the details of silhouette, texture and tailoring.
Designers Remix and YDE were noticed for their monochrome pieces on the runway. This was definitively the big thing for this AW15 season. Not only to reflect the laid-back Danish lifestyle, but also to show that monochrome and simple pieces ‘go together with anything’.
Layering and statement pieces such as the big scarves, turtle necks and oversized coats were spotted at the Ivan Grundahl and Henrik Vibskov collections. While Ganni and Bruuns Bazaar kept a contemporary clean design, layered with wispy chiffon and contrasted by glitter knits.
Freya Dalsjø was featured in amongst the bigger brands. and offered a close-up of her texture focused designs and fur pieces.
As the Copenhagen Fashion Week came to an end, there is no doubt that the Danish fashion industry and talent is blooming and the capital has been reviewed as a rising European fashion centre. However, looking at the Danish fashion industry as a whole you can’t help but notice the lack of platforms for young designers of the kind that London, Paris and New York have.
French-Japanese fashion label Maison Kitsuné presents its FW15 collection in Paris
The Maison Kitsuné brand was born out of a very interesting fusion. With an exotic background mix, this French-Japanese label showcased its Fall/Winter 2015 K.I.M collection last week in Paris
The Maison Kitsuné brand was born out of a very interesting fusion. With an exotic background mix, this French-Japanese label showcased its Fall/Winter 2015 K.I.M collection last week in Paris.
Love of fashion and music came together as architect and designer Masaya Kuroki, and ex manager and artistic director of Daft Punk, Gildas Loaëc, founded the brand in 2002. As Maison Kitsuné developed slowly and organically, it now has three stores - Paris, Tokyo and New York.
The K.I.M (Kitsuné Institute of Music) collection exhibited last week drew creative inspiration from South Korea’s pop culture, Moonassi’s drawings and the design of the South Korean flag. By referencing South Korea’s reputation as the “land of the morning calm”, the brand has combined and balanced out workwear and casual wear, together with a selection of different shades of blue. The collection included coats, shirts, bomber jackets, and denim. Blue, was surely the dominating colour in this collection, accompanied subtly by the colours of grey, tan, beige and black. Bold patterns were also visible in their new F/W15 collection such as houndstooth and checkered prints.
Once again, Maison Kitsuné has shown the diverse inspiration from other cultures and brought it together to this latest collection. In the past, the label’s design and ideas were known for it’s Parisian roots and also the 60’s British rock culture.
The timeless luxury leather designer ÚNA BURKE
Designer and Artist, Úna Burke is a multi-award winning leather sculptor in the fashion world. Burke achieved her masters at the prestigious Cordwainer’s College at the London College of Fashion, and her graduate collection won the 2009 Design Awards for ‘Best Static Collection’.
Designer and Artist, Úna Burke is a multi-award winning leather sculptor in the fashion world. Burke achieved her masters at the prestigious Cordwainer’s College at the London College of Fashion, and her graduate collection won the 2009 Design Awards for ‘Best Static Collection’.
In 2010, Burke went on to set up her own luxury fashion label and also won several more national and international awards including ‘Irish Designer of the Year 2011’ and a nomination for the “WGSN Global Fashion Awards”. Her work is now exhibited in over twenty countries worldwide. Over the years Burke has collaborated with both clients and colleagues such as The National Museum of Ireland, Phillip Lim, and Nick Knight’s creative laboratory the ‘SHOWstudio’. She has also produces film and stage costumes, for the film ‘The Hunger Games’, where Jennifer Lawrence wore an arm brace that was made for her.
Burke designs are both seasonal fashion accessories as well as sculptural art.
She uses complex leather-working techniques and her pieces are truly timeless, elegant and sculptural. All designs are hand-made in the Úna Burke atelier in South London, with the best quality vegetable tanned leathers from the UK and Italy.
There is no doubt that the brand is very avant garde and is an inspiration to many celebrities such as Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Madonna and Heidi Klum. Burke’s designer collections regularly appear in high end fashion magazines, such as Vogue, i-D and Numero.
ZYANYA KEIZER: The next big progressive Fashion Designer
The Mexico City born designer caught the eye of many when her garments were shown in Amsterdam Fashion Week for the SS15 collection. Keizer, half Mexican and half Dutch, creates designs that experiment with unconventional and organic materials.
She began her training at Central St Martins in London, shortly after she moved to Antwerp (Belgium) to develop her fashion career. During her time in Antwerp, Keizer gained valuable experience with haute couture designer Iris van Herpen.
From the experience Iris van Herpen has passed onto the young designer, it is very clear that Keizer has a similar approach in her designs. Progressive design techniques and experimenting with the human body are the main elements visible in her material designs. Keizer’s pieces are heavily embellished and almost portray an artwork within fashion to express dreams, fantasy and the female beauty.
Keizer’s work was also shows at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam, and her SS15 collection explored the fears of everyday reality. Fear of the dark, nightmares and what’s under the bed are some of the themes she explored through her garments. However, one particular source of inspiration was the 1781 painting The Nightmare by Henry Fuseli. This painting was the main discussion about the theories of the unconscious, such as nightmares and dreams. The collection featured many dark, deep colours as well as anatomically sculptured leather pieces and bead work.
Nike set to launch self-lacing ‘Back To The Future’ shoes in 2015
It looks like science fiction is becoming a reality in 2015, as sports brand Nike is on its way to release the famous self-lacing shoe from the movie ‘Back to the Future II’.
The 1989 shoes will have a ‘power lace’ function that would automatically enable them to tighten themselves when feet are placed inside. This function would be triggered by a simple technology inside the shoe, either one determining the weight of a person or a button on the side which would instantly create the tightening effect of the laces around the shoe.
Nike yet remains silent, as they haven’t given the official release date of the shoes. As far as the price goes it is more likely to be somewhat affordable. However, experts predict that this launch will be a big ‘BOOM’ in the market.
LAW Studio takes over the creative direction of Brutus Trimfit
The Lives and Works (LAW) London based bi-annual Magazine established in 2011, has now been appointed as the new Creative Director for Brutus Trimfit.
Over the years, LAW has established a strong wordily self-reputation for their edgy aesthetic visuals and delivering a powerful brand message.
For the 50th Anniversary of Brutus, both of the companies will be working towards expanding the existing clothing range as well as developing a new SS16 collection which will mostly feature classic and statement pieces and include a limited edition collection to mark this special event.
Keith Freedman, the son of Brutus founder, explains why he’s excited for the collaboration: “LAW is a groundbreaking, multidisciplinary agency and a platform for some of Britain’s most creative youth. We have a shared vision of what constitutes British style and it is therefore extremely exciting to be working together with LAW.”
Inspiration to Wear: The new designers to watch out for in 2015
2014 was an exciting year for the emergence of new talents on the British fashion scene.
2014 was an exciting year for the emergence of new talents on the British fashion scene. From grungy Portuguese label Marques’ Almedia’s raw-edged denim designs, to Faustine Steinmetz’s hand woven pieces, Lucas Nascimento’s knitwear, and Molly Goddard’s pink party dresses that took the catwalk by storm - 2014 brought a plethora of fresh innovative designers to the forefront of our attention, thanks chiefly to NEWGEN - the platform which is recognised as producing the stars of London Fashion Week.
Drawing on inspiration from the youth subcultures of the 90s, from the old i-D magazines and the normcore style of today, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida - the Portuguese designer duo behind grungy label Marques’ Almeida, are the rising stars of 2014 on the British fashion scene - winning the Emerging Womenswear Designer at the British Fashion Award this year. “Obsessed” with the youth code of raw, effortless and young, the brands main concern is to create wearable and desirable clothes in a way thats fresh with their signature raw-edged denim and grunge spirit.
Since graduating the university of Westminster in 2012, 25-year-old Ashley Williams has taken the fashion scene by storm. Emerging this year as the runway success of Fashion East, pop culture enthusiast Williams’ camp, kitsch and lighthearted designs that see a melange of pop colours with cheeky graphics are more than just the face value, with ideas of great depth behind the creations. Her trademark pieces are the “Happy Ashley Print dress or big red knit jumper.”
Since graduating the university of Westminster in 2012, 25-year-old Ashley Williams has taken the fashion scene by storm. Emerging this year as the runway success of Fashion East, pop culture enthusiast Williams’ camp, kitsch and lighthearted designs that see a melange of pop colours with cheeky graphics are more than just the face value, with ideas of great depth behind the creations. Her trademark pieces are the “Happy Ashley Print dress or big red knit jumper.”
The Central Saint Martins graduate who has worked with Craig Green, Mark Fast and Alexander McQueen, and considers her greatest achievement as being a part of Fashion East, has made a name for herself this year for her unconventional well styled outfits. The London-based knitwear designer says her signatures are “handmade knits, PVC scribble embroideries, and wobbly shapes” with her trademark piece recognised as the “Powder pink PVC scribble jumper from SS14.”
Irish born “youthful and vibrant” unconventional womenswear designer Danielle Romeril brings “edgy and unconventional inspiration to street chic ready-to-wear with her uncanny visualization of style” through a focus on extraordinary fabric combinations and surface details. Her signatures are “details that are routed in craft but have been given a subversive, punk edge.” With her trademark piece “the humble t-shirt, but re-imagined in lace with leather detailing or laced with leather deck fringing.”
Extraordinarily self-taught through YouTube videos, Hong Kong born designer Ryan Lo creates clothes to make girls look “pretty, cute, gorgeous and sexy.” His trademarks are pink frocks, with his ideal client being “a woman who likes to spoil herself.” His signature aesthetic is “emotional. Grumpy. Lolita. Desperate. Selfish. Aggressive. Arrogant. Naughty. Sexy.”
The star graduate of the Central Saint Martins BA course in 2012, which led to a collaboration with ASOS, Molly Goddard is an emerging star of 2014 who is among the NEWGEN designers to receive presentation sponsorship. Inspired by the Spice Girls and Barbie, the newcomer boasts a whimsical, bold, yet fairy-tale-like aesthetic.
Thomas Tait
This years winner of the LVMH Young Designer Prize, 26-year-old Canadian born Thomas Tait is best known for his razor-sharp precision, immaculate tailoring, clever use of volume, and clean, almost clinical approach to design. He describes his signatures as “clean, understated structure with a focus on curve-linear silhouettes.”
Look me in the shoe. Meet designer CHIE MIHARA
A look inside the creative world of Spanish-based shoe designer Chie Mihara
A look inside the creative world of Spanish-based shoe designer Chie Mihara. Delving into the inspirations and stories that inform her unique designs, we reveal the complexity and depth behind her collections.
A household name for her practical approach to shoe design, whilst also maintaining a fun and feminine aesthetic - Brazilian born shoe designer Chie Mihara is every woman’s dream designer, for her comfortable yet creative foot furniture.
Working “in a man’s” industry as she describes it, in order to offer something different, the Alicante-based designer, who launched her shoe line in Elda, Spain, in January 2002, prides her brand on “footwear designed by woman for women.”
Architecture and craftsmanship is at the core the Chie Mihara designs. She believes comfort and design are married together - her designs tailor to the modern, active woman, who wants to look “attractive but without giving up comfort.”
Since her first collection in 2010, the designer has reflected an intrinsic vintage influence, predominantly from the 1970s, an era she describes was a “great decade of expressing oneself and breaking social barriers,” though she draws on various style inspiration, from 1930s femininity to 1980s humour. Her latest eclectic collection is inspired chiefly by Disney, with Cruella Deville, Mickey and Sleeping beauty particularly influencing her designs.
The iconic clean shapes, semi square toes, simple soles and flat bows widespread throughout Miharas designs, display her real passion for the 1960s. We see the 70s influence with the use of irregular lines and geometrical shapes in black and white, as well as metallic suede, perforated leather and platforms.
When creating her collections, Mihara draws on facets of her multicultural background, she believes the Brazilian influence informs the feminine details, the American influence contributes to the practicality and comfort, the Japanese influences the slightly more abstract approach to design, and the European crucially is reflected in the quality. She says: “when you talk about quality, you really are talking about Spain…there is no other place in the world that can make a decent level of quality.”
Each product is crafted with meticulous care, working in a mathematical sense, Mihara plays around with volumes until she is assured it provides optimal comfort. When creating, the designer likes to emerge into her own world of playing, enter into a free spirit and revert back to child-like ways of playing. Seeing each product in its own individual world, Mihara says she does not produce collections, but items.
She says: “creativity is the light of humanity, if there is no creativity there is no life… My personal view is that there's no need to suppress creativity because of social, economic and political factors, because art is the hope of mankind. Without art or creativity, there's no life! So, why limit our imagination? We should grow and prosper to the highest levels!"
The designer derives a variety of inspiration from museums, art galleries and her collection of books on pattern making, packaging design and illustrations that have nothing to do with shoes. She says: “sometimes you find a book with patterns, or flower patterns and it’s the colour combination you’re looking for.”
The truly unique designs emerge out of Mihara’s innovative techniques she practices to find the right compilation of colours. From placing small cutouts of the outlines of shoes on a magazine page to find the perfect palette, to playing around with pieces of leather she has cut in various shapes, to adding straps and ornaments to her feet - the exquisite footwear is born out of her organic creative flare.
Working with the philosophy that the instantaneous emotion felt when a consumer looks at her products is key, and the comfort, quality, and price of her handcrafted shoes are taken into account subsequently, Mihara focuses on channeling her fun loving energy into her shoes. She wants women to visually and emotionally connect with her shoes, which is why when working on each design she believes it is so important to feel genuine excitement which she can transmit that into the product, so women can receive her energy and “fall in love” with her creations.
She says: “if you put passion in something and you really feel that your heart is coming, and you feel so great about what you’re doing, in the end, that product maybe six or eight months later, maybe thousands of kilometres away - somebody is going to feel that same thing you felt.”
Graduating in fashion design at the Kyushu Design Gakkuin in Fukuoka Japan and accessories design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, where she focused on shoes and handbags, Mihara said: “after a few months doing sculpture I really felt the need to have fashion with me, so I thought whats the combination of both things - and for me the answer was so clear - I can just remember now - shoes… and since then i’m so addicted into shoes!”
Mihara says she loves the concept of setting up a new children's line - a challenge she believes will be easy as her collection is “already very sweet.” She sees the Chie Mihara brand expanding and setting up new stores in Berlin and Paris, to add to her Tokyo store and outlet in Elda, Spain.
ROOMS 16: The Fashtons The Cover Artists Uncovered
Photos by Alexandra Uhart
It’s that time of the year to join the festive reflections on togetherness. We here wouldn’t of course, resist revisiting the values of family when it’s novel and tantalising.
For ROOMS 16, we are welcomed to tap into the creative unity of The Fashtons – formed by husband-and-wife artists Ben Ashton and Fiona Garden. Ben being a figurative painter and installation artist, Fiona a music and fashion photographer: each is as adept in their own fields as in their collaboration.
I will always be drawn to the play of light on bone. The architecture of a face or body, as it stands, in light, whether made up or bare, discovered or intended, is what inspires me. It’s a constant wonder that in that interplay between light and shadow, I can capture the essence of a person – it’s an endless marvel.—Fiona Garden
I feel with every self-portrait I produce, I am constantly reminded of my own mortality and as a result I have become fixated upon the idea of legacy. I have plundered the history of painting, initially to teach myself to paint but after that I would always turn to the security of history to make my next decision.—Ben Ashton
For now, you can only read the eloquent and revealing exchange with Ben and Fiona in ROOMS 16, our hand-selected gift to you. And Merry Christmas for that matter.
ROOMS 16, out now
ArtEZ Institute of the Arts
On January the 19th, artists Hayden Kays and Benjamin Murphy will attempt to make this year’s Blue Monday a little less glum with a gift exhibition to be hosted at East London’s Lollipop Gallery.
Shaping New Talent
ArtEZ Institute of the Arts in the Netherlands trains students for professions in which art, knowledge and creativity play a central role. For more than 3000 students, ArtEZ offers a related selection of Bachelor’s and Master’s degree programmes in visual art, architecture, fashion, design, music, theatre, creative writing, dance and art education. At the same time, ArtEZ is a specialised knowledge institute where lecturers combine theory and practice.
Meet our talents
The online ArtEZ finals magazine provides an impression of the graduation work of the ArtEZ Institute of the Arts’ Class of 2014: dancers, choreographers, visual artists, designers, musicians, musical therapists, art teachers, actors, and architects.
We would love to see you around for the ArtEZ finals 2015 in June and July to visit the Fashion show, the Art & Design exhibitions in Arnhem, Enschede and Zwolle and all the concerts and dance and theatre performances.
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