Kojey Radical is more than just an artist
Artist Kojey Radical recently launched his single OPEN HAND, a powerful tune dealing with the race stigma in our society. With his new concept brand ‘Francis and the artist’, he proves yet again that art can go beyond superficiality.
If you never heard of the name ‘Kojey Radical’, you have been missing out on one of the best inspiration sources of the past couple of years. Referred to as the Basquiat of alternative urban music, the artist/poet/musician/director and occasional designer (amongst other things) will go to extremes to keep his creativity flowing. He recently launched his single ‘OPEN HAND’, a powerful tune dealing with the race stigma in our society. With his new concept brand ‘Francis and the artist’, he proves yet again that art can go beyond superficiality.
“The revolution is not in the closed fist, it’s in the open hand”
Kojey is not afraid to deal with world problems right handed. His last EP ‘OPEN HAND’ is as beautiful as it is meaningful. Produced by fellow London artist ‘New Machine’, he managed to find the words many aren’t capable of finding, striving for people to embrace acceptance.
“Those who will… and those who actually will…”
Knowing the struggle of receiving recognition in the creative sector, ‘Francis and the artist’, Kojey's new concept brand, is a project that hands over part of the creation to new artists. Fusing his background in contemporary art and his love for fashion, Kojey breaks down the basic constructs of the everyday garment, giving young talent the opportunity to make an art work and translate it into a piece of clothing. The first piece is curated by the artist himself, commissioning work from upcoming artist ‘Palime Demanet’ for “The Archetypal T-Shirt”.
The brand will be launched and available for everyone on the 2nd of November at 17:00 GMT. Prepare yourself for a 48 -hour race to get your exemplar at https://andtheartist.com
What is Das Leben am Haverkamp?
Compound design identities, one collective. ‘Das leben am Haverkamp’ is here to give a new dimension to fashion and challenge the industry in every possible way.
photographer: Sandra Zegarra Patow/ stylist: Lewis Robert Cameron/ model: Stephen Edgar
Compound design identities, one collective. Leaving the Royal Academy of Art in The Hague in 2013, Dutch designers Anouk Van Klaveren, Christa van der Meer and Gino Anthonisse, Dewi Bekker decided to not only stay in touch but also join forces. The outcome couldn’t be more mind-blowing as ‘Das leben am Haverkamp’ made it their mission to give a new dimension to fashion and challenge the industry in every possible way.
“Welcome to our island spaceship disjointed, from time and space, which could all of a sudden land at a prestigious museum, or right in front of you at your local supermarket, but never as you expect.” The message is as loud as it is clear: according to ‘Das leben am Haverkamp’, fashion is more fun when separated from conventions and restrictions, surprising and mesmerizing anyone, anywhere, any time.
While their intentions are set, combining four different mind-sets ought to be a challenging phenomenon. However in this case it appears to function in their benefit, using their differences as an empowerment. Where Christa focuses on combining aspects of different cultures, Gino intertwines classic with ethnic. Anouk explores the alienation of the body and Dewi brings in the playful, imaginary aspect. All this combined, it seems the general theme of ‘Das leben am Haverkamp’ is playing with the tension between normality and abnormality, causing a spectacle of surrealistic images, uncharted silhouettes, and unseen fabric combinations, forming a entirety that is as astounding as it is coherent.
Their latest project breaths the philosophy they’ve meticulously created over the past two years. Ornamenting an aged man from top to bottom and putting him on stage for Mercedes-Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week was unquestionably the most unconventional act of the week. They baptized it Gelificifashion, another delightfully weird piece of work to join a collection of lightning glasses and Leggo trousers, fish sculptures and hair art. Quite a portfolio if you ask me.
Presenting one collection a year collectively, ‘Das leben am Haverkamp’ aims to make people more aware of the value of clothing and discard the interpretation of it as a disposable item. As the rest of their time will be occupied by focusing on collaborations and smaller, more experimental projects, we ought to see a lot more from the designers in the future, whether that is as team or as individuals.
POSTmatter Talks – Fashion’s future perspectives in a digital age
From the 20th of November on, creative studio POSTmatter will allow you a sneak peak into their mind-set by hosting three talks treating the evolution and disruption of fashion through technology and digitalization.
Fascinated by the conjunction of the digital and physical world, POSTmatter voices talent that intertwines both realms and pushes boundaries to do so. From the 20th of November on, the creative studio will allow you a sneak peak into their mind-set by hosting three talks treating the evolution and disruption of fashion through technology and digitalization, taken place at London College of Fashion.
1. Reinventing craft and design in the digital age
The first presentation is an introduction to POSTmatter’s means and believes as an online magazine and creative based studio, presenting the link between the talks and their vision. The conversation will continue discussing how new machine-based tools, computer-led software and emergent materials changed traditional craftsmanship and allowed for incredible innovation in the field of fashion.
2. Through the screen: new ways of seeing
The digital age has slipped into every layer in the fashion industry. ‘Through the screen: new ways of seeing, will talk about how digitalism changed fashion within mainstream audience, covering trends from emojis to photoshop and artists that have vowed to disrupt these tendencies.
3. Designing and dressing future identities
The rise of social media has had benefits and equal amount negative influence on society. The last topic of POSTmatter will treat this issue and talk about the rising opportunity to distantiate ourselves from our body and to become a different version of ourselves in the online world.
The talks will take place at the Fashion Space Gallery on the 20th, 23th and 26th of November. If you want to take part and expand your view on the future of fashion you can book your place here:
Reinventing Craft and Design in the Digital Age
London Fashion Week Show Highlight: Day 5
Anya Hindmarch SS16, Backstage - Kris Mitchell, British Fashion Council
Anya hindmarch SS16, Backstage - Shaun James Cox, British Fashion Council
Alexander Lewis SS16, Presentation - Kensington Leverne, British Fashion Council
Fashion Week Showrooms: Gayeon Lee, Kevin Geddes, Nafsika Skourti and REIN
London Fashion Week: our picks
Gayeon Lee SS16
Gayeon Lee takes us by way of the hazy impression of an Italian summer, that, specifically of Federico Clavarino’s travel photobook Italia O Italia. Just as impressions pale in our mental weather, her SS16 collection lands in a tonal palette, with variables of dark and light that composed an unassuming study of chiaroscuro. A recurring theme is one adorned by burnished and matte buttons, bishop sleeves and puckered waistlines. Braced in Lee’s metallic orange hues, the ample tailoring unveiled as startlingly sinuous. Leave it to the wisdom of daylight.
Kevin Geddes SS16
When the nearing London winter would finally conclude, spring may be, for Kevin Geddes, an act of bravura thawing the icy drama with a hushed resolution. I’m talking about the Evil-Knievel-meets-Japanese-retro-anime kind of resolution, but crafted in easy lines and earthy tones. With the delight of sports-inspired rubber KG logo, the female heroism is charged with no less energy, but reticent and gentle in its own array. Spells are better left in whispers.
Nafsika Skourti SS16
Though tense under the spotlight of escalating international crisis, let us be reminded that being a vital manufacturer for garment conglomerates, Jordan is much in its element when Fashion comes calling. But of course, being Jordanian, it is never devoid of social relevance. For SS16, Jordan-based Nafsika Skourti ventured slightly outside her previously desaturated outlook, and staged such “fashionable protest” with her camouflage-themed Temporary Security: soft in form, resolute in spirit. Bilingual text enunciates an intuitive political self, up against backgrounds furnished by derelict Hollywood movie props. I for one, would long to see the “beautiful activism” prevail in and outside the wearable dialogues of Jordan.
REIN SS16
As many collections for SS16 couldn’t help retrieving the rosiness of sunlight and green leaves (though hardly blameful after the non-existent English summer), REIN marches in with an all-black statement that does not pronounce rigidness, instead, a uniform, necessary stubbornness we could all contemplate on, on the thesis of female empowerment.
Laser cutting reveals maze-like patterns through tunic dresses, jackets and matte suede, there stands a body and a girl who is the helmer of her own skin but don’t ever think that’s all there is to her assets.
We meet fabric illusionist Yvette Peek
The ArtEZ design alumni blew everyone away with her graduation collection, sending illusional masterpieces down the catwalk. Check out the interview.
All keep track of upcoming designer Yvette Peek. The ArtEZ design alumni blew everyone away with her graduation collection, sending illusional masterpieces down the catwalk. As curious as we are, we had a talk with her about the story behind her first collection, her admiration for strong women with non-conforming elegance and being the assistant designer of Sharon Wauchob.
What made you realize you wanted to be a designer?
My biggest source of inspiration is my grandmother. When I was a little girl, she taught me how to sew. That led to her teaching me embroidery techniques and pattern making. We even stitched my first designs together.
What do you think are your biggest assets as a designer?
As a designer I challenge myself to find the unexpected in materials and textiles and I made that into my greatest strength. When I design clothing I always have a strong woman in mind, with non-conforming elegance and a luxurious approach to colour and fabric. My graduation collection is based on the insomnia drawings of Louise Bourgeois. One of the strongest and most inspiring women I have ever known.
Before you started with the collection, did you already know the outcome of the design concept?
I went to the exhibition of Bill Viola during my internship in Paris. This was one of the most exhilarating exhibitions I have ever seen. My eye caught on of his illusional art pieces ‘Veiling’ of Bill Viola. In a dark space, an unfocussed film of a man is projected through 10 translucent sheets of fabric, growing paler and larger towards the centre. Two projectors at opposite ends of the space face each other and project images into the layers of material. I became fixated on this video installation. And from that moment on I knew that I wanted to recreate that illusional effect with different kind of layers fabric in my collection. The elements of shape-shifting developed later on, during my drape sessions. After a few drape sessions I came to the idea that my collection had to represents the brain that is experiencing insomnia, and that’s where the insomnia drawings came in.
You interpreted insomnia with fabrics where Louise Bourgeois did the same thing with pencil. Why is it that your collection exists of tints of black, grey and white, while bourgeois’ work consists of colour?
The type of woman I made this collection for is elegant, unpredictable and psychotic. I have used darker tones to create that psychotic vibe. And the best way to create an unpredictable illusion through different layers is to use tints of black and grey.
Can you tell us a bit more about the design process behind the collection?
Quality of fabric and craftsmanship are my most important values when designing. Therefore I won’t be looking at the clock when working on my designs. My collection consists of a lot of different crafts that have to be meticulously conducted. One look required an embroidered top that consists of 460 small pieces of springs that I have formed in circles, and those springs and beads are all embroidered by hand. This took my approximately three weeks. The two last looks in my collection consist of 22 meters of tulle per outfit, all hand-printed with markers, and 4.5 meters of printed plastic. From of all the time I spent working on my collection, those looks were the ones that took up the most time.
You're working as an assistant designer for Sharon Wauchob now. How did that happen and what do you admire about her work?
I worked as an intern for Sharon Wauchob two years ago. During my internship I was assigned as assistant textile/embroideries designer. This was one of the best learning experiences I had so far as Sharon gave me a lot of opportunities to develop myself. After my internship I went back to school for my final year but I stayed in contact with her and I always came back to Paris to help the team during Paris Fashion Week. Sharon is a consistently talented designer who creates thoughtfully engineered garments. I admire her strong detail-focused aesthetic. The way she uses traditional techniques and delicate fabrics in her collection inspires me.
How do you see your career developing from now on?
I would like to gain more experience within the field of design. I hope to get the opportunity to learn a lot from Sharon Wauchob over the next years. It would also be interesting to develop myself within another creative luxury brand with a focus on textiles, but we should not jump to conclusions. You never know what happens and I am looking forward to every new opportunity!
Fashion Week Showrooms: Xu Zhi SS16
London Fashion Week - Our picks
It can’t be denied that there was elegance in the air in Xu Zhi’s SS16 lookbook, but it’s that of such fervency one must touch it to know it. Hand weaving is the long-serving charm in fashion that Xu Zhi keeps coming back to. Inadvertent grace is ever-present borne by his at-ease handcraft, while the knitted satin poetry glides along vivid saturation. With craft in the most tangible sense, this fresh-out-of-Saint Martins graduate is handing out a reassuring answer to how he may grapple a thread-bound intrigue for London.
Xu Zhi SS16, photography by Theresa Mar
London Fashion Week: Show Highlight Day 1-3
Image gallery
BFC Show Space SS16 (Agnese Sanvito, British Fashion Counil)
5 emerging designers we love…
Stumbling on new design talent in the fashion industry is always exciting, especially when those designers can change the perception you have on fashion. Curious about what you might be wearing in a couple of years? Keep a close eye on these talents and you’re ought to find out!
Moses Gauntlett Cheng
Designer complex Moses Gauntlett Cheng, consisting of David Moses, Esther Gauntlett and Jenny Cheng, is challenging the status quo. Known for pushing the boundaries from material choices to gender roles imposed by society, MGC has caused quite some controversy in the sometimes static world of fashion. Brilliantly shocking and oh so fun, their 2015 A/W collection was a non-stop party, starting off by models flaunting an adult baby look down the runway before jumping out of an RV. They explain their cutting-edge collection as a reaction to the piling stress and exhaustion in a rushed life. “We wanted to capture the vibe of going home and embracing comfort a little bit too much; reverting to this ‘adult baby’ stage and being looked after in a way that you’re kind of in love with and also embarrassed by”. Offering not only comfort but also a voice to a new indefinable generation; we expect them to occupy a permanent spot on the fashion radar.
Images via lucillagray.com
Lucilla Gray
In barely two seasons Lucilla Gray has already earned her place at both London Fashion Week and New Zealand Fashion Week, where she just presented her latest collection. Voicing an intelligent, strong woman, she merges conceptual fashion with ready-to-wear ideals as if they were made to synchronize. Although equally mesmerized by the otherworldly digital prints and versatility in her designs, we are mostly impressed by the level of sophistication she implements in every collection piece.
Ashley Kang
All eyes drawn to her remarkably detailed layering at Central Saint Martins graduation show, it is not a surprise knitwear graduate Ashley Kang learned her embroidery skills by working at no other than Alexander McQueen. Top that with a serious dose of glitter, metallics and heavy knits and you have Sporty Granny. Inspired by her own grandmother, her love for flowers and adventure, she created an overwhelming feast for the eye out of materials that couldn’t be more different but somehow fit the picture perfectly. Modernised granny glasses with beaded strings balanced out the outer space sneakers and futuristic silhouettes. Although we have only her graduation show to judge from, it is safe to say we will be seeing more from this young mastermind.
Image via leparadox.com
Quoï Alexander
Another Central Saint Martins wonder, Quoï Alexander, is taking over the fashion industry with his ‘anything but ordinary’ knits. Characterized by strong silhouettes and killer weaving techniques, his latest collection exists of laced armours, intertwining ideas and references together. The inspiration behind his complex collection came from Xu Bing, the writer who tricked Chinese readers in thinking he mastered the language, while in reality his words meant nothing. Obscurity through abstraction, a concept Quoï executed by bold opulence. A choice he had to make, as he could have gone for a minimalist approach. Instead he went for the maximalist route, a choice that definitely launched his career and made us admirers of his work.
Isabel Helf
As maximalism was the former designer’s main strength, Austrian accessory designer Isabel Helf is all about practical minimalism. Her multifunctional handbags have led her to wining the top price at this year’s ITS Accessories Award and a steady future in the fashion industry. Not only are we amazed by the options that come with these handbags, performing as accessory, furniture and storage, the impeccable quality these handbags radiate is truly remarkable. Aiming to give our eyes and minds a break from cluttered reality, she was inspired by compulsive orderliness, a disorder she recognizes herself in. Her inner urge to create a balance between objects within her surrounding area translates itself in the functional value of her bags, solving the on-going issue of space saving. Having brought a truly unique product on the market, we are curious how she is going to translate the combining function and aesthetics in other concepts.
mahabis and the return of the slipper
mahabis, a brand whose mission to reinvent one of the greatest egalitarian types of footwear has trickled into a formidable brand of redesigning and redefining lifestyle… We interviewed founder Ankur Shah and learn more about the process and story behind.
We’ve all been there, walked out of the house blissfully unaware of the all too comfy slipper cradling each foot and the added disappointment when you, or your overly vigilant neighbour, notices. Assumed with warmth and wellbeing, few shoes have succeeded to rival the slipper. In fact, here is a shoe lacking any new means of contemporary design in a very long time, until now. Brought to you by mahabis, a brand whose mission to reinvent one of the greatest egalitarian types of footwear has trickled into a formidable brand of redesigning and redefining lifestyle, finally inviting us to slow down, to stop and to take pleasure in one of life’s greater comforts and downright necessities that is downtime.
mahabis appreciates that much of our time spent outside profoundly impacts how we enjoy our time inside and uses the slipper to skillfully bridge the two together. In recognising that tradition and modernity can go hand in hand, mahabis asked, why must we stick to tradition when the slipper could be used inside and out? And quite rightly so, for when winter turns to spring and beach days turn to bonfires, we forget that our small toes still need that little bit of extra warmth.
Gone are the days when sipping on your coffee in your slippers could only be encountered in your home, the mahabis shoe allows you to do this anywhere and everywhere and is quickly becoming the must-have, go to form of footwear. In a world that’s become so fast paced it is often easy to neglect life’s simplest means, means that are imperceptibly impacting our daily lives and wellbeing and mahabis does well to challenge that, by way of slipper. They’ve brought the inside out, they’ve invited the outside in and simultaneously combined it with a life of adventure, photography, style and culture, to produce a whole design philosophy that’s ready to take the world by storm and we here at ROOMS love it.
I caught up with mahabis founder Ankur Shah, to find out more.
Hi Ankur, tell me a little about yourself and the initial stages of mahabis.
I started my career as a criminal barrister, then meandered into a technology business which after selling that business left me with some time on my hands. That’s when I discovered this massive, but hidden world of slippers. A multi-billion dollar industry with a brand no one was excited about and a product set that was mundane and boring. I thought, hey, let’s try and change that. I was keen to build a lifestyle brand that encapsulated what life was all about, the downtime after the uptime.
And why slippers?
Slippers are an age-old product. They represent something so important. The idea of switching off. We spend billions on better performance, being faster, losing weight, getting stronger. But what about the things in life that let us tune-in whilst tuning out? Relaxing. Chilling out. I wanted to create a product that represented that, both aesthetically and functionally too. I hope we’re going some way to achieve that.
Briefly speak me through the design process of the mahabis slipper. Did the initial design change a lot?
Yes massively. If you saw the original ones you’d be amazed at how far we’ve come. We had the joy of iterating our designs with some of the best young designers in Europe. We played with 3d printing. Applied age-old manufacturing techniques. Whilst the journey was a roller coaster, it was also incredibly inspiring. We’ve incorporated a range of innovative techniques but have strived for a no-fuss, clean and minimal design. The trademark mahabis silhouette is something we have maintained throughout. For us the art of reduction was a hard fought right.
You are based in London but the shoes seem to adopt a very Scandinavian, minimalist approach. Has Scandinavia always been a source of inspiration along the journey?
It has, our slippers and soles are named after Scandinavian towns and cities. We love the quintessentially minimalist aesthetic that is associated with Scandinavian countries, but also the perception of lifestyle minimalism, that less is more. In every sense.
Who is your target audience?
The bit of you that wants to relax. And what amazed us was how broad the cross-section was that identified with that. We talk a lot about redesigning downtime. And we’ve found that people from all age groups, evenly split across the genders, and people from all around the world really connect with that sentiment.
As much as it is a footwear brand, mahabis seems to adopt a whole lifestyle, which is evident in the brand’s imagery and the assisting online blog that you have (which I love!) Do you like to travel yourself?
Definitely, we’ve been global from day one. Our obsession is with embedding ourselves in as many places as possible, I think we’ve had customers from over 90+ countries so far.
Some of our team are working in Ibiza as we speak! We’ve shifted some of the office there for a week, because we may or may not be working on a summer version…shhh, don’t tell anyone.
Your slippers have been extremely popular, had you expected the company to take off as quickly as it has?
We knew there was a market there - the challenge was executing on our vision - as we knew that if we could connect with people on the sentiments we so strongly believed in then we’d have a chance.
We surpassed the 10,000 pair mark after just a handful of months, putting us ahead of amazing brands like TOMs. We’re really excited about where it goes from here.
And what’s in store for the future? Do you see mahabis sticking to its origins as a footwear brand or expanding?
We’re working on so much fun stuff, we think you’re going to love it! We’ll be sure to keep you updated, but keep a close eye as things are coming really, really soon…
All images via © mahabis
Nok Nok. Who’s there?
An interview with Angel Nokonoko, leading denim designer heading up new East London based denim company Nok Nok.
Nok Nok is a vibrant new take on the classic denim jean that has sparked excitement in the creative hub of East London. Nok Nok is an experimental take on how we see and wear our favorite piece of clothing, drawing on inspiration from classic British tailoring and merging them with new washes and techniques inspired by vintage punk, surf and skate style. Nok Nok sources their denim fabrics from Okayama, Japan to provide a solid range of T-shirt.
ROOMS had the privilege to speak to the head designer and founder Angel Nokonoko about his denim collection, why he loves Dalston and what advice he can give to aspiring fashion designers.
How would you describe your company Nok Nok?
Nok Nok is an extension of myself, fun, interesting, and fresh, different with an edge as I say.
How did you get started designing, was this a childhood dream, were you always interested in a career in fashion?
Well since my nightlife times in Ibiza as a teen I use to make and customized t-shirts and jeans for my friends before going raving. It wasn’t really a childhood dream to be honest, I wanted to be a footballer, but I enjoyed making clothes, cutting them, putting studs, it was a great way of expressing myself, like a painting or a picture you want to send a friend or recreate a feeling that you have deep down.
You are a designer and a DJ; do you draw inspiration for designing from music too?
I draw inspiration from anything that I connect with in on spiritual a physical level. I will feel an instant urge to wright it down, draw it or taking a pic. But yeah music it’s a great source of inspiration, same as movies, I love dramas! I don’t really consider myself a DJ out of respect of some of my good friends that are masters in this craft. I would say I’m a good tune selector with a good eye to feel what people want to listen. But funny enough lately I’m djing every weekend with a monthly residency for Weekend Gang Party and I have a weekly radio show at Dejavufm on Thursday.
You are based in East London but you are originally from Ibiza, how are the two cultures different and how have they influenced your fashion designs?
I think East London is a bigger Ibiza, there’s so much energy, I love living in Dalston. I feel so energized and inspired whenever I’m out, the mixture of cultures and styles are great from Turkish to Jamaicans, from fashionistas to skaters and rockers... It’s great and the nightlife it’s pretty good, so it reminds me of Ibiza, the happy vibes… the mixture of people. This influences my work constantly, I like to create pieces that people can wear on a night out, cool rock & roll, sexy and also can wear them to the beach during the day.
Are there any other designers or places of interest in London you get inspiration from?
Nowadays I don’t really follow or check other designers I rather check painters, sculptures, dancers, singers! I draw inspiration from their style, personality & aura... London is great for inspiration you can go to Soho and the energy is so strong or you can go to Stamford hill and feel like you are in a totally different country but this is so beautiful and inspiring.
I understand you are a Central Saint Martins alumni, what kind of advice would you give to a young fashion student inspiring to have their own fashion company?
My time in Saint Martins was some of the best years in London. I used to organize parties for all the students and sometimes teachers used to come down so people used to know me for that. But I also worked really hard; I would say work hard but also learn as much as you can, meet people that can give you good advice, be confident in your dream, don’t let anyone tell you can’t do it! Learn from your mistakes, but above all have fun while you are building you company!! It’s so exciting.
You place a lot of value in detail in your denim collection, from floral fabrics lining the interior to good quality sourced fabrics from Japan, how important is detail for you in design?
Angel Nokonoko by Vlady Vala
I love detail; this comes from the fact that I’m a menswear designer first, so I like to focus on small hidden details. It’s what shows that you have been thinking and studying your design, that there’s a balance and reasoning behind it all. I believe quality is very important; it’s a key point on your brand, especially for small brands, the way you are able to compete is by introducing interesting cool details and quality. I have always been in love with Japan, its culture, people and way of life, they are perfectionist when it comes to craftsmanship, and so quality there is very important.
We are doing a big event in Tokyo in June for my brand in partnership with Weekend Gang Party and 6Tribes.com
What are your plans for your brand for the next year?
I have so many plans for the brand, sky is the limit! We want to get stocked at some big retailers in London, we are talking with a few and have meetings; in addition we are working in a licensing deal for a distribution company in Canada so that will help lift the business up. But for me fashion is just one side of the brand, I would like to expand it to entertainment, like a lounge/shop, a radio station and few other things…
Earn some fashion points by checking out Nok Nok denim designs
All photos © Nok Nok denim and Angel Nokonoko
The Writer’s Selection: Angel Chen
As much as this issue’s No Borders, No Boundaries sub-section pushed the boat out in terms of vibrant design, Angel Chen’s motley collection is a clear stand out for me.
As much as this issue’s No Borders, No Boundaries sub-section pushed the boat out in terms of vibrant design, Angel Chen’s motley collection is a clear stand out for me.
Chen describes herself in the article as a newborn baby, “curious about growing up and experimenting with prints.” This self-evaluation hits home with her latest collection, AW15The Bunny With Short Legs.
It is a explosion of colour in which patchwork cloaks hang over red rompers, puffed out bonnets dangle streamers onto the floor and scribbled faces adorn 3-piece pyjama suits. The collection bares resemblance to a troop of scouts on a weekend exhibition to the Highlands; albeit with the uncanny ability to actually suit yellow and blue pinstripe.
If Chen’s combinations in AW15 seem to be pushing the boundaries, a glorious pastiche of 70s high fashion, then her earlier work goes fully beyond the left-field.
AW14 Les Noces is the story of two girls who met in Africa and decided to get married. “My collection is a narrative of that story,” Chen says. “It’s a beautiful, colourful wedding, because in Europe weddings are always in black and white. The characters I portrayed are four friends who came from all over the world to celebrate.”
It is a charming story and a charming characterisation by Chen, who glosses over the fact that the four friends all seem to work as bedraggled clowns. Les Noces is stupendously surreal. The patterns are intense and the cuts chunky. Although it veers far closer to the farcical than later work, it remains in the sublime with a similar joyous giddiness as FRUiTS.
At the end of the article Chen talks about the direction she going with her work.
“I’m growing up with my customer. I’m really crazy about colour too. I want to explore detail and colour as much as I can.”
Whether this admission signals a continuation along the svelter lines of AW15 or a return to the brazen textures of Les Noces, Chen’s work will undoubtably continue to be as eye catching as it is unique.
The Ones to Wear: Angel Chen, Monique Daniels, Magdalena Brozda, Ka Kui Cheng, Shimell and Madden. Check out the interviews by Alyss Bowen in our new issue ROOMS 17, Who decides what you see?
Nick Waplington/Alexander McQueen: Working Process opens today at the Tate Britain
Working Process is a major photography exhibition which provides a unique insight into McQueen's satirical and aggressive Horn of Plenty Autumn/Winter collection from 2009, as captured by artist Nick Waplington
Five years on since the death of Alexander McQueen, one of the most prolifically talented fashion designers of our time, Working Process, which opens today at the Tate Britain is a major photography exhibition which provides a unique insight into his satirical and aggressive Horn of Plenty Autumn/Winter collection from 2009, as captured by artist Nick Waplington.
The exhibition which features a selection of around 100 large and small scale photographs across seven rooms, is a celebration of the deliberately provocative last collection produced by McQueen, including never seen before images taken by the acclaimed British photographer.
As an iconoclastic retrospect of his career in fashion, Horn of Plenty focused around the concept of reworking and recycling, pulling vintage silhouettes and fabrics from the archive to be remastered, recoiling old ideas from previous seasons. The designer described his collection as a: “punked up McQueen It Girl parody of a certain ideal, of a woman who never existed in the first place.”
Designed during the recession, the collection was born out of the ideas we were “living in a mess.” From the couture silk clothes ironically designed to look as if they were made from bin liners and broken records, to the catwalk set out of broken mirrors and discarded elements from the sets of his past shows, the collection was a huge operation which was designed to provoke shock and fascination.
Working with six large format cameras, a process which Waplington described as “frenetic”, the photographer, who is known for centring his work on issues of class, identity and conflict and mixing different forms of photography, was entrusted to capture the intense and theatrical working process of production of the garments, from the drawing stage right through to the show, capturing a raw, unpolished side of the fashion industry.
He said: “It was important for me to capture the downtime in the studio and then be ready for those moments of excitement when everything kicked into gear again. I was very conscious that I would include every stage of the process, and that I would take pictures of everyone working in the studio right though to the interns.”
From the inception in McQueen’s Hackney studio, to the grand finale in Paris six months later on the 9th March, Waplington’s photographs emphasise McQueen’s involvement from start to finish with every piece. As noted by Susannah Frankel, Fashion Editor of The Independent: “it’s very unusual to watch a designer go from kneeling on the floor cutting a pattern, to pinning that pattern on a model and fitting it down to the last detail.”
Juxtaposing the candid images of McQueen’s working process, Waplington visited Veolia’s land field site on the A12 also significantly in East London, as well a recycling plant in Mansfield, Nottinghamshire, and a recycling plant in the Negev desert in Israel, to make what he described as “theoretical pictures of the waste ground.” Used throughout the exhibition to create a powerful commentary on destruction and creative review, the artist observed that the photographs developed the project from what would have been a fashion documentary sequences of pictures, to a true work of art.
The project finished in November 2009 and was finalised by McQueen 3 months before his death. In conversation with The Tate, Waplington said that he now feels he is “looking after part of his legacy with this work”, something he describes as a strange situation to be in.
The exhibition runs until the 17th May and coincides with the Victoria and Albert museum’s Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty fashion exhibition.
All images© Nick Waplington/Alexander McQueen: Working Process Courtesy of Tate Britain
Lea Colombo, A Self-Taught Photographer
Since relocating to her dream city of Paris aged 19, 22 year old South African native Lea Colombo has captured the atmosphere and essence of the fashion frontline, from London to New York, Paris, and Milan
Since relocating to her dream city of Paris aged 19, 22 year old South African native Lea Colombo has captured the atmosphere and essence of the fashion frontline, from London to New York, Paris, and Milan.
The self-taught photographer whose work “represents a vast collection of ideas, feelings and scenarios,” has brought us key moments and details from backstage and the runway since her debut in 2012.
As the resident fashion week photographer for Dazed & Confused, Colombo is the artist behind the authentic shots of models in the midst of backstage chaos. Famous images include the Jacquemus S/S14 show which caught models on a smoke break outside, whilst other shows have included Maison Martin Margiela, Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexander Wang, Jeremy Scott, Dior Homme, Prada, Lanvin and Balmain.
Her distinctive edgy cinematic photographs, which are saturated with colour, shot only using natural light, have earned her the recognition as one of the greatest young photographers in the fashion world, and ranked her at number 46 on the dazed 100 shortlist for redefining style and youth culture in 2015.
Inspired by “life itself, people, everyday surroundings and the joys of traveling,” Colombo’s photography stretches from landscapes, intimate portraits of models, skateboarders in Moscow, to haute couture fashion, often juxtaposing between chaos and stillness.
Based on her stunning backstage photography, the artist is highly in demand for editorial work. She has collaborated with the likes of POP Magazine, Elle UK, TANK Magazine, V Magazine, V Man and Interview Magazine, and says she is inspired by 90s fashion photographers Mario Sorrenti, Craig McDean, Nick Knight, and David Sims.
Is it fashion or fruit? The story behind footwear brand Guava
Portuguese footwear line, Guava lends its inspiration from CEO and Creative Director’s, Ines Caleiro’s, passion for architectural shapes - fittingly the name was coined after Caleiro’s favourite fruit.
By Alyss Bowen
Portuguese footwear line, Guava lends its inspiration from CEO and Creative Director’s, Ines Caleiro’s, passion for architectural shapes - fittingly the name was coined after Caleiro’s favourite fruit.
Based in Oslo, Norway, Caleiro started her love affair with shoes whilst attending London College of Fashion, where she was invited to work with Jimmy Choo after winning ‘Best Student Award’. Guava was born in the USA in 2010, when Caleiro’s former boss advised her to turn a shoe-obsession into reality and start a footwear brand – after spotting Caleiro obsessively drawing shoes on every piece of paper available.
Coming from a graphic and product design background, and having extensive experience in creative areas, such as fashion and interiors, served Caleiro well when forming Guava. Driven by the emotions behind vibrant colours and asymmetries; its designs are a ‘fusion of a geometric seduction.’ The statement block heel is not only a piece art-wear for your footwear, but calculated so precisely it would be impossible to take a tumble whilst wearing these urban designs.
Priding themselves on utilising modern technologies, while still holding onto an artesian feel, Guava shoes are a quality product. Each piece is hand crafted by a team of dedicated artisans, whose refined skills enable them to create detailed, delicate shoes that embody an original vision and fresh design concept.
Guava is not only a colourful unique experience with a niche concept; they only use sustainable materials such as; bio leather and rubber made from recycled materials. The Guava team work closely on all aspects of the manufacturing, to ensure they produce a product that is creatively distinctive and environmentally green. As idea that stemmed from a love for fruit, Guava is ultimately for people who want to experiment with contemporary detailed and innovative footwear.
Up close and personal at Fashion Scout
When ROOMS were invited to check out the Fashion Scout, Ones to Watch show, and go behind the scenes, we jumped at the chance.
When ROOMS were invited to check out the Fashion Scout, Ones to Watch show, and go behind the scenes, we jumped at the chance. And where better than Fashion Scout to discover the latest talented designers.
JMOON kicked off the show, founded by London College of Fashion graduate, Jihnee Moon, who recently launched her womenswear line. With her modern use of colour and textures, it’s easy to see why she won the ‘best directional use of colour and textile’ award for her BA press show.
Her simplistic take on tailored trousers, peter pan collars and roll necks, contrasted with hints of colour made her collection just the right amount of minimalism.
South Korean designer, Minju Kim’s playful approach to fashion has got her collaborating with Disney to re-image Minnie Mouse. A standout short and blazer two set, complete with said Minnie print made an appearance on the runway. Minnie Mouse had never been so coveted.
Kim Stevenson’s collection paid homage to a London guard with her tall headpieces. Her use of floral embroidery against denim and tasseled textures gave her line a flamboyant, showy edge – however, she brought it back down to street level with her patchwork, wearable jeans.
Angel Chen’s latest collection, Bunny with short Leg is noticeably different from her usual brave coloured previous lines. With khaki greens and juxtaposed texture, it’s ultimately still Chen behind the collection, but Bunny with short leg feels like her previous collection, The Rite of Spring’s, older, more sophisticated sister.
Wearing scout neckties, badges and boyish shorts this collection had an androgynous vibe. She incorporated daring yellow and reds, perhaps as a nod to her more colourful work, complementing the forest greens and creams of the lace details.
To draw upon her bunny title, Chen collaborated with designer Jing Tan to give her models sock ‘bunny’ feet, and beautifully intricate lace bunny ears, disguised as hats.
ROOMS were instantly drawn to both Chen’s designs, and Chen herself. The first thing you notice about her is how much of herself she projects into her clothes. Her animated character is undeniably addictive and you can sense her energy as soon as she speaks.
Her clothes not only reflect this energetic vibe, they echo her inner childlike qualities. It would be no surprise if everyone that met her tried to put her in their pocket, so they too could carry around her spirit with them.
ROOMS caught up with Chen to hear about the new collection. Inspired by a Bolero lyric, Chen’s told us her ideas stemmed from: “An army group walking through this forest, where they come across this goddess like girl. Everyone loves and wants to protect her.”
She projects this exploration through her use of texture to symbolise the forest girl’s lively nature. The collection combines both organic and synthetic materials, with mixtures of lace and tasseled details.
As far as new design is concerned, Fashion Scout’s, One to Watch show had a variety of designers we hope to see in the future. All showcased inventive, original styles and techniques, combined with high-end and wearable pieces. All designers had that special something, however, Chen’s latest collection, and her carefree spirit ticked all the boxes for ROOMS. We can’t fault her, and would quite like to be her new best friend – Angel, please take note.
JMOON, ANGEL CHEN, MINJU KIM, KIM STEVENSON
Photos by Alexandra Uhart
On the fashion map: The US Deep South
With NOLA Fashion Council serving as a platform for Southern based and born designers, the Deep South is well and truly gaining momentum and establishing its position on the fashion map.
With NOLA Fashion Council (NOLAFC) serving as a platform for Southern based and born designers, noted as “the driving force behind the growth of the Fashion Industry of New Orleans” - coupled with competitive fashion festivals battling it out for media attention in the crescent city - as well as fashion weeks now in Nashville and Charleston, the Deep South is well and truly gaining momentum and establishing its position on the fashion map.
Boasting a homegrown style, designers emphasise on keeping things in the town, collaborating with local pattern markers, sewers and illustrators, to reflect the intrinsically creative Southern spirit. The Deep South trends with hand craft and effortlessly chic designs, with fabrics often ranging from chiffon, seersucker and tulle, to lightweight cottons and knits, designing with tropical temperatures in mind.
Embodying the Southern aesthetic, founder of NOLA Fashion Week, blogger and designer Andi Eaton, listed as one of the most stylish southerns, is owner to one our favourite boutiques in the Deep South, hazel & florange. The New Orleans “home spun, ethereal and delicately beautiful” brand is a celebration of southern charm, featuring locally crafted bohemian-style clothing, jewellery and accessories for women, with various sweet floral prints and a consistent 70s retro vibe in her designs. We also love her blog - ouiwegirl.com.
As fashion forward as the Deep South gets, also based in New Orleans is high end boutique Exodus Goods.Focusing on design and cultural aesthetics, “filled with stylish threads, bold accents and a curated selection of contemporary lifestyle “goods””, Exodus Goods combines luxury with trendy apparel, keeping in the Southern vintage theme with clean cut silhouettes in a mixture of cotton and polyester, silk tent and mesh dresses, woven maxi skirts and bold-edgy accessories.
Jumping over to Charleston, Hannah Goff, winner of Charleston Fashion Week Emerging Designer 2012 and Belk Southern Designer Showcase 2012, brings an eccentricity to the coast with her heavy eye catching textiles and emphasis on colourful collages of prints. For her accessories she follows the Southern handmade traditional detailing trend, but is prominent for her contrasting print-centric style. Her pieces have gained the attention of Time Out New York, The WildMagazine, Elle.com and Nylon Magazine.
Can't wait for Spring: Edwin SS15
Edwin’s classic denim has cultivated new elements and washes into the Spring/Summer 15 collection. Making sunlit appearances are checks and stripes, together with camouflage and leopard print, SS15 is cut for a casual day out as well as some intrepid strolls in the woods. Tapered jeans with low crotch fit have provided more definition to spontaneity for the urban minds. Knitwear is also a must on the list for springtime. This season light knit jersey will be accompanied by appliqué detailing. A variety of choices in patterns and fabrics, SS15 is here to enhance the functional while referring to the casual undertone, but it never fails to impress.
We like Designer MARTINE ROSE
“NEW BEAT GENERATION – ADRENALIN – LONDON DANCE”
“NEW BEAT GENERATION – ADRENALIN – LONDON DANCE” – the words taken from a flyer, printed on to patches and sewn on to the garments of London menswear Martine Rose’s AW14 collection, inspired by her days on the London rave scene.
Described by Dazed as the “unsung hero of Britain’s menswear scene,” the go-to designer for Rhianna is all about referencing influential British youth movements and reflecting inspiration from her own experiences in her collections. Past seasons have been inspired by the early 90s ravers (AW14), the 70s S&M subculture (SS15) and the skinheads (AW12, AW13 and SS14.)
Originally beginning as a Menswear shirting label in 2007, Rose was scouted by Lulu Kennedy, director of Fashion East when showcasing her debut collection of 10 shirts at a Black private members club in Soho. With the support of Fashion East, Rose debuted her first catwalk collection and subsequently gained the prestigious British Fashion council sponsorship NEWGEN award. The rising design talent now choses to not exhibit on the catwalk, but likes to explore the possibility of alternate options.
Music is a big reference point for designers creative process. In an interview with Dazed she said: “I got turned on to fashion through music. It didn’t come the other way around.” Her subculture inspired silhouettes blend masculinity and femininity, we see an eclectic mix of odd proportions, unexpected fabric combinations and unconventional textile paring in her designs.
For AW15 Rose takes us back to urban 90s with what she describes as a “sporty crusty ravey type vibe” in a collaboration with fashion collective #BEENTRILL#. She has also collaborated with Ditto Press and artist Toby Mott to create a made-to-order MA1 jacket and a limited-edition patch set and badge featuring Grogger and Inch to mark the book Skinhead: An Archive.
Previous collaborations for the designer include Wallpaper Magazine, Timberland, Ligne Roset, CAT and Boutique Department store Browns. Rose has received press attention across the globe and boasts stocks in the US, Europe and Asia.
SS15 Illustrated: Our favourite fashion illustrators
Though fashion illustration has slowly been on the decline since the late 1930’s with the emergence of photography, nothing can replace the ethereal and timeless beauty of a detailed hand sketch, which has the power to utterly bring a design to life.
Admired as an art form, there is something so incredibly charming about a detailed reportage illustration, which translates an artists unique interpretation and impression.
Whilst only playing a small role to the contribution of magazines and advertising, there is still a role for the craft in the industry. Stylish sketches are particularly illustrious in the blogosphere, esteemed by fashion power houses, and regarded as collectable pieces of art.
From minimalistic pencil sketches, to bold, striking shapes which play with form and proportion - fashion illustrators have the freedom to pour their artistic style into the essence of their work and to inspire us with their distinctive visions.
For each of the fashion capitals, resident illustrators are commissioned by SHOWstudio to create a series of original sketches. Some elegant, some playful, some focusing on one detail in particular and others balancing light and dark, but all strikingly unique with their signature styles.
Among my favourite fashion illustrators is London and LA based Velwyn Yossy. Distinctively associated with elegance and style, as SHOWstudio's resident London Fashion Week S/S15 illustrator, Yossy has produced a series of original artworks inspired by womenswear collections including Burberry, J. JS Lee, and Issa. Using a mix of clean lines and bold colours the artist pushed the boundaries conceptually with her unique interpretations.
Working in paint, noted for her bold striking splashes of colour, Australian contemporary figurative painter Abbey McCulloch, named as one of ‘Australia’s 50 Most Collectable Artists’ by Australian Art Collector in 2009, illustrated the many runway styles from Paris Fashion Week. McCulloch depicted looks for Louis Vuitton, Viktor and Rolf, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Balmain, Givenchy and Sonia Rykiel to name a few.
In complete style contrast NYFW was documented in the simplistic and fragile signature style of Victoria Kim, the New York born and raised artist who has worked for publications such as Visionaire and V Magazine. Kim depicted the key runway looks from shows including Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein, Alexander Wang and Gareth Pugh.
The bold graphic work of Damien Florébert Cuypers is also especially recognised. Capturing New York Fashion Week with “impressionistic portraits of the fashion set” as noted by The New York Times, his colourful sketches in his signature crayon style which jump from the page give evidence to why this exquisite art should always have a place in the fashion industry.
From haute couture to street wear, to depicting runway styles and fashion personalities, there will always be a space for the art form of impression drawings in the industry, no matter how advanced technology becomes. Illustration will continue to thrive with the help of these talented artists.